COASTAL HYDRO- AND MORPHO-DYNAMICS

COASTAL HYDRO- AND MORPHO-DYNAMICS

_
iten
Last update 01/06/2021 14:29
Code
98074
ACADEMIC YEAR
2021/2022
CREDITS
5 credits during the 2nd year of 10720 ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERING (LM-35) GENOVA
SCIENTIFIC DISCIPLINARY SECTOR
ICAR/01
LANGUAGE
English
TEACHING LOCATION
GENOVA (ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERING)
semester
1° Semester
modules
This unit is a module of:
Teaching materials

AIMS AND CONTENT

LEARNING OUTCOMES

The course is aimed at introducing the student to the hydrodynamics and morphodyanics of the coastal region

AIMS AND LEARNING OUTCOMES

The course is aimed at making the student capable of formulating and solving the problems related to the propagation of sea waves from the offshore region to the coastline considering refraction and difraction phenomena and the possible wave breaking. The morphodynamic phenomena generated by sea waves will be also described.

 

Teaching methods

Frontal lectures

SYLLABUS/CONTENT

1: Stokes waves: Introduction - The evolution of a monochromatic wave: formulation of the problem - Small amplitude waves: the solution of the linear problem - Some characteristics of the small amplitude waves - Superposition of waves - Standing waves
2: Nonlinear effects: Introduction - Nonlinear effects on a progressive wave -
Nonlinear effects on a standing wave - Saintflou diagram
3: Refraction phenomena - The energy of a propagating wave and the energy flux - Group velocity: a kinetic interpretation - The phenomenon of shoaling - The equation of wave action - Wave rays and Snell’s law.
4: Diffraction - Helmholtz equation - Cases of engineering interest.
5: Viscous effects: the bottom boundary layer - The flow field and the shear stress in the boundary layer: the linear approach - Nonlinear effects and the generation of a steady current
6 : Shallow water waves - Introduction and Boussinesq theory - The solitary wave - Cnoidal waves - Edge waves
7: Depth-averaged equations for steady currents
8: The depth and time averaged equations - Introduction - Continuity equation - Momentum equation - Some preliminary simplifications - The radiation stress tensor
9: The phenomenon of wave breaking  - The set-down and set-up - The longshore current
10: The tides
11: The sediment transport
12: Coastal morphology

RECOMMENDED READING/BIBLIOGRAPHY

Course notes available on request (send a message to:      paolo.blondeaux@unige.it)

TEACHERS AND EXAM BOARD

Ricevimento: It is possible to fix an appointment with the teacher by sending an e-mail message to: paolo.blondeaux@unige.it  

LESSONS

Teaching methods

Frontal lectures

ORARI

L'orario di tutti gli insegnamenti è consultabile su EasyAcademy.

EXAMS

Exam description

Oral exam

Assessment methods

The exam is aimed at verifying the capability of the student to formulate and solve simple problems of coastal hydrodynamics anf morphodynamics