PHYSICS OF THE OCEAN

PHYSICS OF THE OCEAN

_
iten
Code
68875
ACADEMIC YEAR
2019/2020
CREDITS
6 credits during the 1st year of 9012 PHYSICS (LM-17) GENOVA
SCIENTIFIC DISCIPLINARY SECTOR
FIS/06
LANGUAGE
Italian
TEACHING LOCATION
GENOVA (PHYSICS)
semester
2° Semester
Prerequisites
Teaching materials

AIMS AND CONTENT

LEARNING OUTCOMES

The teaching of Ocean Physics aims to provide detailed knowledge of the physical laws that regulate the dynamics of the seas.

AIMS AND LEARNING OUTCOMES

The purpose of the course is the knowledge of the dynamical equations  that describe the coastal currents and the sea level variations generated by the  stress of the wind on the sea surface. The use of finite difference dynamical models is adopted to describe coastal storm surges and sea waves.

Teaching methods

Lectures for 48 hours.

SYLLABUS/CONTENT

Characteristics  of the sea water: temperature, salinity, temperature-sanity diagrams, density, pressure. General circulation of the oceans and the Mediterranean Sea. Coriolis force and Ekman spiral.

Dynamical equations: Euler and Navier- Stokes equations. Wind stress on the sea surface  and tidal forcing   in enclosed basins.

Numerical models: finite difference models to compute sea level variations, coastal currents, sediment transport and variations of the coastal line.      

Basic instruments: tide and current recorders, high resolution atmospheric pressure recorders and vertical long period seismometers to detect and forecast sea waves.

RECOMMENDED READING/BIBLIOGRAPHY

K. F . Bowden, Physical oceanography of Coastal Waters ( 1983). Ellis Horwood. Ltd

A. E. Gill, Atmosphere-ocean dynamics (1982). Academic Press

F. Mosetti, Fondamenti di Oceanologia e Idrologia (1979). UTET

J. Proudman, Dynamical Oceanography (1952). Methuen & COLTD

TEACHERS AND EXAM BOARD

Ricevimento: Upon request

Exam Board

LORENZO PAPA (President)

PAOLO PRATI

ANDREA MAZZINO

LESSONS

Teaching methods

Lectures for 48 hours.

LESSONS START

Teaching takes place in the second semester.

ORARI

L'orario di tutti gli insegnamenti è consultabile su EasyAcademy.

Vedi anche:

PHYSICS OF THE OCEAN

EXAMS

Exam description

Oral examination.

Assessment methods

Periodic verification tests through computer and manual exercises.